Guide complet des techniques de tissage
Plain weave
8000 BC, universal
The plain weave is the oldest and simplest weave: each weft thread passes alternately over and under each warp thread (1/1 repeat). It produces a balanced, reversible fabric with excellent tensile and abrasion resistance. Weave density determines the fabric's character: low density = muslin, organza; high density = calico, percale. Variations include reps (ribbed by thicker warp or weft threads), taffeta (silk in a light plain weave) and canvas (heavy-duty plain weave). Cotton yarns of 40-80 Nm produce luxury percales with a dry, cool hand. It is the foundation of garment making: over 60% of the world's fabrics use the plain weave.
Twill
Antiquity, Eurasia
Twill shifts the binding point by one thread on each weft row, creating a visible diagonal (wale) on the surface. Common repeats are 2/1 (3-end twill), 2/2 (4-end twill, gabardine), 3/1 (denim, 4-end satin twill). The diagonal angle depends on the warp/weft ratio and the shift. Twill offers an excellent compromise between strength and drape: the diagonal conceals soiling (the reason for denim's success), and the long floats improve suppleness compared to plain weave. Harris Tweed, Burberry gabardine and Levi's denim are iconic twills. Worsted wool twills reach 250 g/m2 for suits, while raw denims range from 350 to 450 g/m2 (14-16 oz). Broken twill and herringbone are highly prized decorative variations.
Satin
China (Song dynasty), 12th century
Satin uses long warp floats (warp satin) or weft floats (sateen) to minimize binding points, creating a smooth, lustrous surface. Standard weaves are 5-harness satin (4 floats + 1 binding), 8-harness satin, and 12-harness satin. The higher the harness count, the more intense the sheen, but the lower the abrasion resistance: a 5-harness silk satin offers sublime luster but withstands only 2000-4000 Martindale cycles. Charmeuse (lightweight silk warp satin, 80-120 g/m2) is the iconic fabric of luxury lingerie. Duchess satin (200+ g/m2, double-faced) is used for bridal and evening gowns. Cotton sateen with a thread count of 60-80 threads/cm is the standard for premium bedding.
Jacquard
Lyon, 1801, J.-M. Jacquard
The Jacquard loom controls each warp thread individually (up to 24,000 hooks on modern Staubli LX looms), enabling patterns of unlimited complexity. Invented by Joseph-Marie Jacquard in Lyon in 1801, it used punched cards, the ancestors of computer programming (Babbage drew inspiration from it). Jacquard fabrics include brocade (raised patterns on a satin ground), damask (reversible patterns alternating plain weave/satin), lampas (supplementary weft for colored patterns), and brocatelle (accentuated raised patterns). Modern electronic Jacquard looms (Staubli, Bonas) weave at 800-1200 insertions/min with thread-perfect precision. The high cost reflects the complexity of preparation (loom setup, pattern programming) and the required thread density.
Dobby / Dobby Loom
18th century, Europe
The dobby loom controls groups of warp yarns via frames (up to 24-32 frames) to create repetitive geometric patterns. Unlike jacquard (individual control), dobby groups yarns by frame, limiting complexity but offering superior productivity (1200-1500 insertions/min). Classic dobby weaves include houndstooth (4 black yarns / 4 white yarns in 2/2 twill), honeycomb (hexagonal cells creating an absorbent relief), basket weave (yarns grouped in plain weave creating a checkerboard effect), waffle (waffle effect for towels), and piqué (raised relief). Modern electronic dobby (Staubli S3200) offers the flexibility to change patterns without re-rigging the loom.
Velvet / Pile weave
Ancient Egypt, 5th c.
Velvet uses a third yarn system (an extra warp for warp velvet, an extra weft for weft or épingle velvet) that forms loops. Cut velvet (loops sliced by a blade) offers that characteristic dense, soft surface. Ciselé velvet combines cut and looped areas for raised patterns. Genoa velvet (silk) and Lyon velvet are historical references. Crushed velvet, panne (velvet flattened under pressure), plush (long pile), and corduroy (ribbed velvet) are distinct variants. A good silk velvet reaches 3000-5000 pile yarns per cm2. Cotton velvet (280-350 g/m2) is more durable and affordable.
Gauze / Leno
Antiquity, universal
Gauze (leno) twists warp yarns in pairs around weft yarns, creating an open, airy yet stable structure (yarns do not slip despite the space between them). This twist distinguishes gauze from simple low-density plain weave. Applications range from medical textiles (compresses, dressings) to fashion textiles (sheer scarves, lightweight stoles) and technical textiles (filters, sachets). Silk leno (< 30 g/m2) is an exceptional textile for haute couture shawls. Marquisette (fine cotton or nylon gauze) is used for curtains. The leno technique is also combined with other weaves to create open areas within a denser fabric.
Tapestry
Antiquity, Gobelins (17th century)
Tapestry uses a discontinuous weft: each color is inserted only in the area of the pattern, completely covering the warp. In high-warp (vertical loom, Gobelins) or low-warp (horizontal loom, Aubusson), the weaver works from the reverse, guided by a cartoon (full-scale drawing) placed behind the warp. The density can reach 6 to 10 warp threads and 20 to 40 wefts (picks) per centimeter. One square meter of high-warp Gobelins tapestry represents 6 to 12 months of work by a highly skilled artisan. The joining techniques (relays, interlacing) ensure strength at color junctions. Today, the Gobelins and Aubusson workshops perpetuate this tradition under the aegis of the Mobilier national.
For Journalists and Bloggers
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