Guide complet des fibres cellulosiques regenerees

Lyocell is produced by dissolving cellulose in NMMO (N-methylmorpholine N-oxide), a non-toxic organic solvent recycled at 99.7% in a closed loop. This process, patented by Courtaulds (1988) and industrialized by Lenzing AG under the Tencel brand, is the cleanest of all cellulosic fibers. The resulting fiber offers exceptional dry tenacity (38-42 cN/tex) and retains 85% of its strength when wet, a decisive advantage over conventional viscose (which loses 50%). Its hand feel is naturally soft and cool, with a fluid drape. Lyocell is fully biodegradable (2-3 weeks in compost, ISO 14855), certified EU Ecolabel, OEKO-TEX Standard 100, and GOTS-compliant. Carbon footprint: 0.9 kg CO2eq/kg (Higg MSI). Applications: dresses, blouses, jersey, denim (Tencel x Refibra), bedding, lingerie.

Viscose (or rayon) is the oldest regenerated cellulosic fiber, invented in 1891 by Cross and Bevan. The xanthate process dissolves cellulose in caustic soda and carbon disulfide (CS2), forming a viscous solution extruded into filaments. Its moisture regain (11-13%) is excellent, ensuring comfort close to cotton. Its main drawback is the loss of tenacity when wet (up to 50%), causing a risk of shrinkage during washing of 3-5%. The environmental impact of the conventional process is significant (CS2 emissions, water consumption), but new technologies such as ECOVERO (Lenzing) and Livaeco (Birla) reduce the impact by 50%. Lowest price in the category: 1.80-4 EUR/kg. Very wide applications: apparel, upholstery, hygienic nonwovens.

ECOVERO is Lenzing's eco-responsible viscose, made from FSC/PEFC-certified wood in a low-emission process. Compared to conventional viscose, ECOVERO reduces aquatic emissions by 50% and water consumption by 50%. Each fiber is identifiable by its patented molecular marker, enabling complete traceability from forest to finished garment. Certified EU Ecolabel and OEKO-TEX. Physical performance nearly identical to standard viscose, with the advantage of a significantly reduced environmental footprint. Available in staple fiber and continuous filament.

Modal is a high-tenacity variant of viscose, developed by Lenzing in the 1960s. Made from beechwood via a modified xanthate process, it retains 70-75% of its tenacity when wet (compared to 50% for standard viscose), giving it much better dimensional stability during washing. Its hand feel is remarkably soft and silky, more stable after repeated washes than viscose. Lenzing Modal (MicroModal) is widely used in underwear and high-end lingerie. The Modal Sun variant offers natural UV protection (UPF 30+). Moisture regain: 11%, excellent drape. Biodegradable in compost. Carbon footprint: 1.2 kg CO2eq/kg.

Cupro (cuprammonium rayon) is manufactured exclusively by Asahi Kasei under the Bemberg brand, from cotton linters (short fibers surrounding the cotton seed, a by-product of the cotton industry). The cuprammonium process dissolves cellulose in a copper-ammonia complex, producing ultra-fine filaments (0.5-1.5 dtex) of exceptional regularity. Its microfibrillar structure gives it a silky touch, a moisture regain of 12%, natural antistatic properties (charge below 2 kV), and incomparable glide (friction coefficient 0.18). It is the absolute reference for luxury linings. Certified OEKO-TEX Standard 100. Biodegradable. Chanel, Dior, and Armani use it for their structured jackets. At Misciano, all our linings are made of Bemberg.

Acetate is a cellulose ester obtained by acetylation (reaction with acetic anhydride). Unlike other regenerated cellulosic fibers, acetate is a thermoplastic derivative: the cellulose is not regenerated but chemically transformed, giving it unique properties. Its moisture regain is lower (6.5%), but its luster is exceptional, close to silk. Its feel is dry and cool, ideal for men's suit linings and evening gowns. Sensitive to solvents (acetone) and requiring dry cleaning. Dyeing is done with disperse dyes. Triacetate (Arnel) has better thermal stability. Acetate is biodegradable but more slowly than viscose (8-12 weeks in compost).

Triacetate (commercial names Arnel, Soalon) is cellulose acetate with a high degree of substitution (DS greater than 2.9, compared to 2.4 for secondary acetate). This difference gives triacetate better heat resistance, enabling heat setting and permanent pleats. It withstands machine washing at 40°C without deformation, which secondary acetate cannot tolerate. Its moisture regain is low (3.5%), but its dimensional stability is excellent. Triacetate declined in the 1990s but is making a strong comeback in Japanese technical garments (Soalon from Mitsubishi). Applications: pleats, structured dresses, upholstery fabrics.

Tencel x Refibra is Lenzing's circular economy technology, integrating pre-consumer cotton scraps and post-consumer cotton garments into the lyocell process. Up to 30% of the raw material comes from recycled textile waste. The resulting fiber is indistinguishable from standard Tencel lyocell in terms of performance (tenacity, drape, hand feel), but with an even lower carbon footprint. Each fiber carries the Lenzing molecular marker for traceability. Refibra denim is adopted by brands like Levi's and H&M Conscious. This is the future of cellulosic fiber: performance without compromise and circularity.