How to read a textile composition label: the precise decoding to choose the right material
You have a garment in hand, the cut pleases you, the color is right, but the label leaves you hesitant: “viscose 72%,” “polyamide 28%,” “polyester lining,” “elastane 2%”… And you must decide quickly: will this fabric breathe, wrinkle, pill, itch, hold its shape? Reading a textile label is not a school exercise: it’s a decision-making method. The goal is simple: to translate technical words into worn sensations (hand, drape, warmth, fit) and into real behaviors (care, durability, appearance after ten wears).
Here is the Misciano method, focused on composition: how to read a textile composition label, without getting lost in jargon, and especially without buying “blindly.”
1) Start with the order of fibers and percentages: what the label really says
The first rule is the most useful: on a label, the highest percentage dictates the essential behavior. A “cotton 95% / elastane 5%” has nothing to do with a “polyester 95% / elastane 5%,” even if the elastane is identical. The body of the fabric (the majority fiber) decides breathability, skin feel, how the material captures light, and the speed at which it creases.
Sources: EU Regulation 1007/2011 on fiber labeling, ISO/ASTM, and IFTH resources.
Next, look at the composition as an equation: main fiber + supporting fiber(s). Supporting fibers are rarely there by chance:
- Elastane (1 to 8%): provides ease and better shape recovery. At 2% on pants, you feel a discreet flexibility; at 6–8% on a close-fitting dress, the material accompanies more.
- Polyamide: often added for strength and a smoother surface. In knit, it can limit wear but also increase the “cold” feeling.
- Polyester: can stabilize, reduce wrinkling, reinforce a fabric… but depending on construction, weight, and finishes, it can also retain heat and increase static electricity.
A point many overlook: the label may mention “other fibers” or “various fibers”. This does not mean “bad,” but it means that reading becomes less predictive: you lose transparency on the final touch and on the evolution during washing. When you are looking for a specific material (for example, a dry and crisp hand, or conversely a fresh fluidity), favor readable and coherent compositions.
Finally, do not confuse composition and quality. Two viscoses can be opposite: one dense, with a heavy and crisp drape; the other light, more fragile, which shines more. The label is an excellent filter, but not an absolute guarantee: it tells you “what it’s made of,” not “how it’s spun, woven, finished.”
2) Translate fibers into worn sensations: hand, drape, warmth, wrinkling
Reading a composition becomes simple when you relate it to four sensory criteria: the hand (contact), the drape (movement), the thermal quality (warmth/coolness) and the creasing (appearance after wear). The label gives you the “family” of probable sensations, and your hand confirms.
Cotton: often a straightforward hand, more or less dry depending on the weave. It breathes well but can show creases, especially in poplin or canvas. A cotton with a bit of elastane gives a more “flexible” feel and a more compliant silhouette.
Linen: fresh sensation, slightly grainy, with a lively creasing (which is part of its language). A linen/cotton blend softens the touch; a linen/viscose blend makes it more fluid and slightly limits creases, but changes the look: less “dry”, more flowing.
Wool : thermal comfort, elegant drape when it is well constructed. On a label, “wool” can mean a lot: virgin wool, merino, alpaca... With the same composition, the fineness of the fiber changes everything: a finer wool is softer and more stable on the skin, a more rustic wool can itch slightly and pill faster in friction areas.
Viscose / modal / lyocell: softer hand, often cooler, fluid drape. Viscose can crease and be sensitive to moisture if the construction is light. Lyocell often has a more “full” hand, with controlled fluidity, and a very pleasant cool sensation on the skin.
Polyester / polyamide / acrylic: these fibers can be very efficient, but they require careful reading. A well-crafted polyester can provide a stable drape and reduced creasing; poorly chosen, it can give a harsh shine, a more suffocating feel, and accentuate odors (depending on use). Acrylic, common in knitwear, can be light and warm, but it tends to pill if the twist and density do not follow. It is important to note that these effects also depend on the weave, weight, and finishes.
Misciano Tip: when the label announces a “fluid” fiber (viscose, lyocell) but the fabric seems stiff, it is often the construction (tight weave, structure) or a finish (finish) that dominates. In this case, rely on the immediate sensation: the composition explains, but your hand decides.
3) Do not stop at the “Shell”: lining, trimmings, coating, and key areas to check
A common mistake: only reading “100% cotton” on the main material and concluding too quickly. Many pieces have multiple labels or multiple lines: main fabric, lining, inserts, padding. Yet these elements often determine the real comfort.
The lining: a dress can display a beautiful viscose on the outside and a 100% polyester lining. Possible result: the dress “sticks” more, static electricity increases, and the sensation of breathability decreases. Conversely, a viscose lining provides a softer glide and a more “lively” contact. When you are looking for comfort on the skin (dress, skirt, blazer worn close to the body), the lining deserves as much attention as the main fabric.
The inserts: some garments combine several materials (knit back, woven front, shaping sides, etc.). A “mixed” composition can be a good technical idea, but it also creates different reactions to washing and ironing. Check where the synthetic fibers are located: under the arms, at the waist, on the back... These are areas where heat and friction change perception.
The padding: for a coat or a down jacket, the label can distinguish “shell” and “filling”. It is the padding that determines the level of warmth and how the piece ages (settling, loss of loft). Even if you buy “for the material”, do not neglect this point: it conditions the use.
Coating / coating / membrane: sometimes, the label mentions a coating (polyurethane, acrylic, etc.). A fabric can be “100% cotton” but coated: the hand becomes firmer, breathability decreases, maintenance becomes more complex. If you are looking for a breathable material, this is a decisive detail.
To go further in the logic of material choice (without getting sidetracked), you can complement this reading with the house's reference guide, via this unique link: how to choose a clothing material without making a mistake.
4) Reading a textile composition label when there is a blend: interpreting the intention (and spotting the traps)
Blends are ubiquitous because they respond to an intention: correct a defect or enhance a quality. Your role, when reading the label, is to understand this intention and see if it serves your use.
Examples of “logical” blends (often relevant):
- Cotton + elastane: more comfort, less deformation at knees/elbows, sharper silhouette at the end of the day.
- Wool + polyamide: better resistance to friction (socks, fine sweaters, close-fitting knitwear). Polyamide can stabilize without too much distortion if the percentage remains measured.
- Linen + viscose: more fluid drape, slightly less harsh creasing, softer touch. Useful if you like the spirit of linen but not its very marked crease.
- Viscose + polyester: compromise between fluidity and stability. To watch: the shine and thermal sensation, which vary greatly depending on quality and weave.
Noble materials Each piece from Misciano Paris is made from
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and an elegant silhouette, revealing the beauty of each garment.
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- “Wool 20%” in a predominantly synthetic knit: the promise of warmth and a "noble" feel is limited. You can get a lightweight and easy-care sweater, but expect a drier feel, less regulated warmth, and possible pilling if the synthetic fiber is dominant.
- Very complex blends (4 fibers and more): they are often designed for industrial constraints (cost, stability, volume production). The result can be acceptable, but predictability decreases: more delicate care, uneven reactions to washing, uncertain evolution of the feel.
- Low percentage "alibi" (silk 5%, cashmere 3%): these fibers have only a marginal impact on the final feel. Read them as an adjustment, not as the identity of the fabric.
The right question to ask is not "is it natural or synthetic?" but: what is this blend trying to achieve, and is it consistent with my actual use? A dress worn in summer, an office piece worn for a long time, or a travel garment do not have the same requirements.
5) Composition ≠ care: read the label to the end to avoid unpleasant surprises
Last point, often underestimated: the textile composition conditions the care, but it does not summarize it. Two 100% viscose garments can have radically different instructions depending on their construction and finishes.
Some useful benchmarks:
- Cellulosic fibers (viscose, modal, lyocell): sensitive to hot water and aggressive spinning. A light viscose can deform when wet; a denser viscose holds better but requires gentleness and flat drying.
- Wool: the mention "hand wash" or "wool cycle" is not decorative. Fine wool will felt if it undergoes heat + friction. The composition alerts you, but the instruction is decisive.
- Presence of elastane: avoid heat and tumble drying. Even in small doses, elastane ages poorly if overheated, which can permanently deform the piece.
- Coated materials or technical blends: too frequent cleaning = loss of finish. It's better to air, clean occasionally, and respect low temperatures.
Reading a label to the end means anticipating not only the wearing, but also the living of the garment: frequency of washing, durability over time, ease of daily care.
Reading a textile composition label is regaining control
A textile label is neither an obstacle nor a marketing promise: it is a reading tool. It allows you to quickly rule out materials incompatible with your use, anticipate the sensations when worn, and avoid disappointments after a few wears or washes.
The Misciano method consists of three simple reflexes: identify the main fiber, understand the intention of the blend, and check the secondary elements (lining, coating, care). With these benchmarks, you no longer choose "blindly" you choose with knowledge, consistency, and demand.
Article by Camille Laurent
Published on 01/13/2026 at 18:39
About the author
What interests me above all is the intimate relationship we have with clothing: why we choose it, how we wear it, and especially how long it accompanies us.
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