How to choose a clothing material without making a mistake
What exactly is meant by a fabric material
Understanding what really makes a fabric
Talking about "100% cotton" is not enough to understand the behavior of a fabric. The fiber is just the starting point. Between the nature of the fiber (cotton, wool, silk), the way it is spun, the weave chosen (plain, twill), the construction (woven or knit, like jersey) and the finishing treatments (dyeing, mercerizing, washing), each step profoundly transforms the final result.
Understanding the "material": a simple word for a technical reality
When we say " material ", we often think of a single element: the composition (cotton, wool, silk, polyester). However, in the workshop as in the fitting room, the material of a garment is the result of a complete chain: the fiber (the origin), the yarn (the transformation), the structure (weaving or knitting), then the finishing (the finishes). It is this combination that determines the feel, fluidity, firmness, opacity, resistance, creasing, and even the way the color is applied and ages.
In other words: reading "100% cotton" on a label does not yet tell you if you will have a neat and structured fabric, or on the contrary, soft, stretchy, prone to pilling. Cotton is just a starting point. To how to choose a fabric material accurately, you must learn to distinguish the technical layers that create the final result.
Fiber, yarn, weave, knit: the building blocks that change everything
The fiber is the raw material: cotton, wool, linen, silk, viscose, polyester... Each fiber has natural properties (absorption, insulation, elasticity, shine). But these properties can be amplified or diminished by the way it is transformed.
Designers like Inès de la Fressange use various fabrics to create pieces that combine comfort and aesthetics. Her approach to style highlights the importance of material quality in modern fashion.
The yarn is the spun fiber. Its quality depends on the length of the fibers (staple), regularity, twisting (tighter or looser), and count (finer or coarser). A fine and regular yarn will give a smoother, shinier fabric, often more elegant to the eye. A thicker or more irregular yarn can add relief, a more textured charm, but also more friction and sometimes more visible wear.
The weave refers to the way the threads cross in a weaving. Three main families structure the majority of fabrics: plain weave (simple, stable), twill (diagonals, more flexible and resistant), satin (floats, shinier, more fluid). With equal fiber, the weave changes the hand and drape.
The knit (jersey, interlock, rib...) is a construction by loops, not by crossings. It often provides more stretch and comfort, but can also mark more, deform more easily, or pill depending on the yarn and finishes. A "100% cotton" knit does not have the same presence as a "100% cotton" woven.
Each Misciano creation is the result of demanding expertise and a meticulous selection of materials. Our quality commitment is reflected in elegant, durable pieces designed to enhance every silhouette with naturalness and refinement.
Discover our commitmentFinishing: the final touch that decides the wear
After weaving or knitting, the fabric is finished: washing, dyeing, printing, finishing, mercerizing, brushing, calendering... These operations can make a material softer, more stable, shinier, more matte, more wrinkle-resistant, or conversely more lively and natural.
Mercerizing, for example, is a classic finish on cotton that increases shine, strength, and dye absorption capacity. A mercerized cotton can appear neater, brighter, and often more "dressed" than a non-mercerized cotton, even with the same composition.
Conversely, a "washed" cotton (garment wash type) can gain in flexibility and immediate comfort, but lose a bit of structure. Neither is superior in absolute terms: it all depends on the use and the balance sought.
Why two "100% cotton" fabrics can behave oppositely
Imagine two pieces labeled "100% cotton":
Case A: a cotton woven in poplin, fine threads, tight plain weave, slightly finished. Result: smooth, neat, fresh fabric that holds its shape, ideal for a structured shirt. It wrinkles, yes, but with a "clean" wrinkle, readable, which sometimes adds to the charm of a well-cut piece.
Case B: a cotton in jersey, fluffier thread, flexible knit. Result: comfortable material, more stretchable, more prone to pilling, that hugs the body. It can show more (underwear, folds), and its structure depends on the weight (grammage) and stability of the knit.
Both are "cotton". But in wear, they are two worlds: poplin shapes a silhouette, jersey accompanies movement. One evokes precision, the other fluidity.
Misciano Case: same fiber, two renditions (poplin vs jersey)
We like to remind that a fiber is an alphabet, not a sentence. Take a shirt in cotton poplin: to the touch, you feel a clear freshness, a discreet almost "paper" noise, a smooth surface that captures light without shining. The collar sets, the cuff remains precise, the shoulder line retains its clarity.
Facing it, a top in cotton jersey: the hand is rounder, more enveloping. The fabric folds without resistance, follows the breath, accompanies the gesture. The light diffuses, more matte. On the skin, the comfort is immediate, but the material will sometimes require more attention: avoid repeated friction (bag, rough belt), monitor stretching, and choose a sufficient weight to maintain balance.
This comparison is essential to learn how to choose a clothing material: you don't just choose a fiber, you choose a behavior.
2. What criteria to look at even before the composition
Read a material before wearing it
The quality of a fabric is revealed in a few simple gestures. In the fitting room, five tests are enough to understand its real behavior: pinching to judge the hand, rubbing to evaluate the hold and risk of pilling, twisting to anticipate creasing, exposure to light to check opacity, and stretching to measure the natural elasticity of the fabric.
These quick and accessible micro-tests provide a much more reliable reading than a simple label mention.Precisely, the label deserves careful attention: the composition of the main fabric, that of any lining, or the presence of a coating directly influence comfort, breathability, and how the piece behaves when worn.
A simple indicator allows you to anticipate daily use: if the material clearly retains the mark of a fold after three seconds, you need to plan for more regular maintenance, especially for ironing or transport. These observations guide each material choice, far beyond the displayed percentages.
Before the label: what your hands and eyes already know
The composition is useful, but it never replaces observation. In-store, you have an advantage: you can evaluate the material as a workshop would, with simple gestures. This is often where a successful purchase is made.
A material can be "beautiful" on a hanger and prove demanding in daily life; conversely, a discreet material can become an everyday ally if it drapes well and wears well.
Here are the 5 criteria to look at even before reading the label: hand (touch), drape, opacity, creasing, elasticity. And above all: how these criteria align with your actual use (office, walking, transport, travel, ceremony).
The 5 quick tests in the fitting room: a reliable method
1) Pinch test (hand and density)
Pinch the material between your thumb and index finger, then release. A dense material often returns with more "presence." A material that is too soft may lack hold on certain cuts (collar, placket, lapels) unless supported by interfacing or lining. The pinch also informs you about fineness: a very fine material can be delicate, transparent, or mark more.
2) Rubbing test (surface, potential pilling)
Gently rub the material with your palm for 10 to 20 seconds, always in the same spot. Observe: do small fibers rise? Does the surface become more "blurred"? This test does not replace a laboratory, but it alerts. Fuzzy knits, some viscoses, and some blends with short fibers can pill faster, especially in friction areas (hips, underarms, shoulder strap).
3) Twist test (creasing and memory)
Slightly twist a piece of the fabric, hold for 2 to 3 seconds, release. If the creases remain very marked, the material will have a strong memory: it will crease easily and require more maintenance. If it relaxes quickly, it will be simpler in daily life.
4) Light test (opacity and structure)
Place the material facing a light source (fitting room, window, phone flash). Look at the opacity, but also the regularity of the weave: do you see irregularities, thinner areas? For a light dress or summer pants, this step is decisive. A material can be pleasant and breathable, but too transparent for your comfort.
5) Stretch test (elasticity and return)
Gently stretch horizontally then vertically. A knit stretches naturally; a woven can stretch a little on the bias (fabric bias). Observe the return: does it return well in place or remain relaxed? A material that "stays" risks deforming at the knees, elbows, seat.
Note: These tests are qualitative indicators performed in the fitting room and should be considered as analysis leads. Their result may vary depending on the technical treatments applied to the fabrics (anti-crease finishes, mercerization, etc.).
Label reading: composition vs lining vs coating
Even before reading the percentages, identify what is not the main material but changes everything when worn:
The lining: a dress can be in pleasant viscose, but lined in less breathable polyester. Result: warmer feeling, sometimes static, and less comfort in summer. Conversely, a cupro/viscose lining can improve glide and breathability.
The coating: a fabric can be "cotton" but coated for a waxed, water-repellent, or sheathed effect. The appearance is superb, but breathability decreases, noise can increase, and creases sometimes become more visible. It's a choice of style and use.
The interfacings (collar, waistband, facings): invisible, but essential. A soft material can be enhanced by a well-chosen interfacing; a noble material can be undermined by an interfacing that is too rigid, breaking the fluidity.
The simple indicator: the 3-second fold
A very concrete marker: fold the material in your hand, press lightly 3 seconds, release. If the mark remains clear, anticipate:
- More frequent ironing or steaming before going out,
- More delicate transport (suitcase, bag),
- Seating: creases at the hips, behind the knees, at the lower back.
This is not a condemnation: some crease-prone materials are beautiful (linen, some silks, some cottons). But it's a conscious choice. Refinement is also about buying with knowledge of the garment's real life.
The making of a piece: when the material becomes a workshop choice
Before being worn, a Misciano piece is first thought out in the workshop. The choice of material is part of a precise chain: fabric selection, drape tests, weight validation, compatibility with the cut and finishes. The same fabric can be chosen or rejected depending on how it reacts to sewing, thread tension, or final assembly. Understanding the making of a piece, is to understand why certain materials are favored for their stability, durability, and fit when worn, far beyond their simple composition.
3. How to read a label without being misled
Knowing how to read beyond percentages
On a label, the order and proportion of fibers matter as much as their nature. A fabric labeled as 95/5 will not have the same comfort or fit as a 60/40 blend: in the first case, the majority fiber clearly dictates its behavior, while in the second, the balance between materials significantly alters the garment's flexibility, breathability, and stability. Reading the percentages is already anticipating how it will wear.
Some formulations, however, can be misleading. A mention of "silk" may only refer to the lining, "wool" may be present in a marginal proportion, and the term "leather" can sometimes refer to a simple coating.
These nuances are not details: they change the perception, care, and durability of the piece. Transparency goes further: when the information is available, the fabric's weight and the country of weaving are also indicated, to provide a complete and honest understanding of the material, beyond words and marketing effects.
Descending order: the rule that changes your reading
On a label, fibers are listed in descending order. The first fiber is the majority, thus structuring. But percentages matter as much as the order: a blend can be designed to correct a flaw, or conversely to reduce cost at the expense of comfort.
Understanding how to choose a clothing material involves interpreting the ratios:
95/5 (e.g., 95% cotton, 5% elastane): the main fiber clearly dominates. The 5% often serves to provide comfort, ease, and better shape retention. On pants or a skirt, this can improve the fit throughout the day.
60/40 (e.g., 60% wool, 40% polyester): this is a real balance. Polyester will have a notable impact: less wrinkling, more resistance, sometimes more warmth felt, sometimes less breathability. This can be excellent for a mid-season coat or travel pants, but less pleasant for a piece worn in a heated interior if the cut is fitted.
What percentages say about comfort and fit
Thermal comfort: a majority of natural fibers (wool, cotton, linen) often helps with breathability, but beware: a synthetic lining can negate the effect. Comfort comes from the whole.
Fit and wrinkling: synthetic fibers (polyester, nylon) often provide better wrinkle resistance and dimensional stability. But a material that is too "plastic" can lose fluidity and elegance in movement. The balance is played out in the feel and drape.
Care: a small proportion of a fiber can impose the most demanding care. Example: 10% wool in a blend may be enough to recommend more careful cleaning depending on the construction and finishes.
Common pitfalls: what the label does not highlight
"Silk" in lining only: sometimes, a piece is sold with a narrative around silk, while the main material is synthetic, and silk only appears in the lining (or worse: in a detail). Always check the "Shell / Main fabric" vs "Lining" line.
"Wool" minority: a coat advertised as "wool" may contain 20% wool and 80% synthetic fibers. This is not necessarily bad, but it is not the same experience: warmth, odor management, drape, aging.
"Leather" vs "coating": some items display a leather look through a polyurethane coating on fabric. The appearance can be successful, but the patina, breathability, and repair are not the same. Genuine leather is nourished, repaired, and marked by a history. The coating ages differently: possible cracking, more abrupt wear areas.
"Viscose" and moisture fragility: a very fluid viscose can be wonderful to wear, but it can deform or shrink if care is approximate. The care label is your second compass after the composition.
Misciano transparency: weight and country of weaving
Two pieces of information are too often missing for the consumer, although they are crucial:
- The weight (g/m²): it informs about density, opacity, fit, seasonality, durability. Two 100% cotton fabrics can be separated by 60 g/m²... and by a world of use.
- The country of weaving/knitting: without being an absolute label, it gives an indication of industrial standards, know-how and sometimes traceability. When the information is available, it deserves to be displayed.
We are committed to displaying the exact weight and, when possible, the country of weaving/knitting on each of our product sheets. This transparency, enriched by internal tests and based on commonly used references (e.g., ISO 12945 for pilling, Martindale for abrasion), helps you buy with precision: not "more expensive," but fairer.
4. Which natural fibers to choose according to the desired comfort
Cotton: the false obvious choice
Cotton is often chosen "for safety." It is breathable, pleasant, easy to wear. But its quality and behavior vary greatly. To understand how to choose a clothing material, remember three levers: yarn count, weaving, weight.
Yarn count: a finer and more regular yarn gives a smoother cotton, often more elegant, sometimes more fragile if it is too fine for the use. A thicker yarn gives a more robust, more casual cotton, sometimes rougher.
Weaving: a tight poplin offers ideal sharpness for a shirt. An oxford brings relief and controlled relaxation. A more open weave breathes better but may gain in transparency.
Weight: a light cotton (e.g., some summer poplins) can be fresh, but also transparent in white or light color. Conversely, a denser cotton drapes better, marks less, and often ages better in tension areas.
To the touch, a beautiful cotton gives a feeling of cleanliness and balance: neither greasy nor excessively "dry." It captures light discreetly.
Wool: intelligent warmth and elegance of drape
Wool is precious for two reasons: thermoregulation and odor management. It can keep warm without suffocating, especially when the fabric is well woven and the cut allows for breathability. Contrary to some misconceptions, wool is not reserved for winter: a cool wool (dry weave, combed yarn) is superb at the office, even in mid-season.
Merino: fine fibers, often softer on the skin, excellent thermal management. In knitwear, it's a refined ally for turtlenecks and fine knits. Caution: depending on the twist and finish, merino can pill.
Combed wool: aligned fibers, smoother, neater finish. Widely used for suits and trousers: precise drape, more controlled creasing.
Flannel: brushed wool, softer, more matte, warmer. Its charm is immediate: a velvety light, a depth. It sometimes marks a bit more with creasing, but with natural elegance.
Wool is also chosen by ear: a cool wool "sounds" drier, a flannel "whispers" softer when rubbed.
Silk: light, fluidity... and demands
Silk is a material of light. It can be shiny (satin), matte (crepe), textured (dupion), airy (chiffon). Its refinement comes from its ability to follow movement and capture shine without rigidity.
But silk requires careful reading:
- Perspiration: some silks mark more easily, especially in summer. Stains can appear depending on the dye and weave.
- Friction: a very fine silk can wear out in friction areas (bag, belt, edges). Satins can "gloss" in stressed areas.
- Care: many silks require delicate cleaning. Some can be hand-washed, but it depends on the finishes and colors.
A successful silk is recognized by its controlled fluidity: it glides, but does not collapse. It accompanies, without catching.
Silk according to use: when the material becomes a strategic choice
Not all silks are worn the same way, and it is often the use that should guide the choice. A fluid and light silk will be ideal for a silk scarf or a top worn close to the body, where movement and light are paramount, while a more structured silk will provide more hold to a blouse or a piece designed to frame the silhouette.
The question is therefore not only aesthetic, but functional: thermal comfort, sensitivity to creasing, reaction to perspiration, and behavior over time.
To delve deeper into these differences, it is useful to refer to concrete examples of silk pieces, to specific care guides, or to articles explaining how to wear silk daily without unnecessary constraints.
5. Which artificial and synthetic fibers are really worth it
Artificial fibers: the softness of transformed plant material
Artificial fibers like viscose, lyocell, and modal come from cellulose (often wood), transformed to become yarn. They often offer a very pleasant feel: freshness, fluidity, soft drape. For a dress that dances, wide pants, a breathable blouse, they can be remarkable.
Viscose: very beautiful fluidity, often silky touch. Caution: it can wrinkle easily depending on the weave (crepe, light canvas), and lose strength when wet. Some viscoses shrink if care is too hot or too aggressive.
Lyocell: often more stable, more resistant when wet, with a smooth feel and elegant drape. However, it can crease depending on the construction. Very pleasant in summer, especially in smart blends (with cotton or linen) to gain texture.
Modal: soft, supple, often used in knit. Excellent comfort on the skin. Beware of possible pilling if the yarn is fluffy and the piece undergoes regular friction.
Synthetic fibers: the tool, not the enemy
Polyester and nylon have a bad reputation, sometimes rightly so when used without care. But it would be a mistake to reject them outright. They bring valuable qualities: durability, ease of care, resistance, quick drying, stability. The key is to choose them in the right place, in the right proportion, and with a construction that remains elegant. Note that high-performance filament polyester variants, when integrated into an airy structure, can also offer decent breathability.
When it's a good choice:
- Rain: technical trench, windbreaker, water-repellent fabrics.
- Travel: wrinkle-free pants, easy-to-roll dresses, pieces that dry quickly.
- Chic sport: skirts, jackets, and tops that require elasticity, resistance, and hold.
A well-woven polyester can mimic elegant crepe or offer stable gabardine. But the feel must remain pleasant: a too "dry" and noisy hand often betrays average quality.
Elastane: a small percentage, a big impact
Elastane (spandex) is rarely the majority. It's a supplementary fiber, but it greatly alters usage. In general:
- 2–5% elastane: improves ease, hold, comfort when sitting, and shape retention.
- Beyond: the piece becomes more "stretchy", sometimes more form-fitting, and may require an adapted cut.
Use case: on a pencil skirt, 2–5% elastane can prevent the "baggy knees" effect and make walking more natural. But depending on the yarn and surface, elastane can also increase pilling: the fabric stretches, fibers release, and friction causes balls to appear faster, especially on certain knits or viscose/polyester blends.
The right reflex: do the rub test, and observe the surface at the hips and inner thighs (reality zones).
6. Weave or knit: why structure changes everything
Weaving: the invisible architecture of the garment
Two fabrics can have the same composition and yet offer opposite behaviors. The structure, weaving or knit, is the architecture. It determines the resistance, fluidity, wrinkling, and how light interacts with the surface.
Canvas: simple weave, very stable. Often sharper, more "clean", sometimes more prone to wrinkling if the fiber is sensitive (cotton, linen). Ideal for shirts, linings, structured pieces.
Twill: recognizable by its diagonals. It often provides more flexibility and abrasion resistance. Many pants and gabardines are made of twill. It often wrinkles less than an equivalent canvas and offers a rounder drape.
Satin: weave with floats, smoother and shinier surface. It "glides" on the skin, captures light, provides fluidity. On the downside, it can mark (snags) and requires delicacy.
Knit: comfort, but watch the surface
Knit is constructed by loops. It is naturally more stretchable, more comfortable, more tolerant to body variations. It's an everyday ally... if well chosen.
Jersey: flexible, often thin to medium. Very pleasant, but can roll at the edges, deform, or pill depending on the yarn.
Interlock: more stable knit, denser, often more qualitative to the touch. It drapes better and marks less.
Rib: vertical relief, significant stretchability, often used for close-fitting tops. It can mark underwear more and requires good opacity.
With knit, the quality of the yarn and the finishes are crucial: a too fuzzy surface is more sensitive to friction.
Workshop example: satin viscose vs crepe viscose (same composition)
In the workshop, the example is telling: a satin viscose and a crepe viscose, both 100% viscose.
Satin viscose: smooth surface, clear glide, more present light. It often has a "cooler" feel on the skin, and it marks less with light wrinkling because the continuous surface reflects light uniformly. However, it can reveal snags and requires attention to jewelry and bags.
Crepe viscose: more granular surface, elegant matte finish, more "lively" movement. But this structure can catch folds more and wrinkle more easily, while better masking small body irregularities thanks to its texture.
Same fiber, two lives. This is exactly why choosing a material cannot be reduced to a word on the label.
7. How to choose the material according to the season and temperature
Summer: breathe, dry, let the skin live
In summer, comfort comes from two things: breathability and drying ability. Heat is not just a matter of temperature: it's also humidity, sweat, friction.
Linen: summer champion. It breathes, dries quickly, offers a lively feel and natural elegance. It wrinkles, yes, but it's a noble, readable wrinkle. For more structure, look for linen with sufficient weight, or a linen/cotton blend.
Light cotton: pleasant, but watch out for opacity. A too-thin white poplin can become transparent. For shirts and dresses, opt for a denser cotton if you want to limit transparency and marks.
Lyocell: excellent in summer for its fluid drape and comfort. On a long dress or a wide pants, it gives a feeling of freshness and a beautiful fluidity to the movement.
Avoid the "all synthetic" reflex in full heat, especially on close-fitting cuts: breathability may be insufficient, and the sensation may become less pleasant throughout the day. However, a well-thought-out touch of synthetic can help with wrinkling and drying.
Winter: insulate without suffocating
In winter, the material must insulate, but also manage the alternation of heated interior / cold exterior. Wool is a choice ally: it regulates, limits odors, and maintains an elegant drape.
Wool and flannel: perfect for pants, skirts, jackets. Flannel brings visual and tactile softness, with enveloping warmth.
Dense knit: opt for knits that have structure. A too-loose knit lets air through and deforms. A dense knit maintains the silhouette and fits better into an elegant wardrobe.
Layer management: comfort also depends on strategy: a thin merino under-sweater under a cold wool jacket, a breathable lining, a dense cotton shirt under a sweater. The material is chosen as a system, not as an isolated piece.
To go further, discover our article on the art of winter layering.
Mid-season: the art of balance and humidity
Mid-season is often the most difficult: humidity, temperature variations, light rain, wind. This is where twills, gabardines, and blends become valuable.
Twill: more resistant, often less wrinkly, rounder drape. Very good for transitional pants and jackets.
Gabardine: tight twill, very stable, nice structure. Ideal for trench coats and neat pants. It can be in cotton, wool, or blends.
Smart blends: a bit of synthetic can help limit wrinkling and manage humidity, without sacrificing comfort if the cut is well thought out and the lining breathes.
8. Which material to choose according to the occasion and level of demand
Office: the material must last the day
At the office, the material faces reality: prolonged sitting, repetitive movements, sometimes transport, and artificial light. The objective: structure, opacity, controlled wrinkling.
Cold wool: ideal for pants and jackets. Neat drape, controlled wrinkling, stable elegance. It lasts the day without collapsing.
Twill: excellent for pants and skirts. Resistant, little wrinkling, with a nice presence.
Dense poplin: for shirts, it offers precision that frames the face and structures the silhouette. Opt for sufficient density to avoid transparency and marks.
Tip: for a light piece, always do the light test. Elegance at the office is also a matter of serenity.
Ceremony: light, movement, discreet comfort
A ceremony requires a material that looks good in photos, in movement, and over several hours. Here, composition matters, but structure matters even more: drape, light, comfort.
Silk: satin for light, crepe for refined matte, chiffon for lightness. Beware of friction (bag, jewelry) and sweat. An adapted lining can change everything: better glide, better opacity, more comfort.
Satin (silk or high-end synthetic): superb in a long dress, fluid skirt, dressy blouse. Satin reveals the cut: it requires precise construction and suitable lingerie.
Crepe: often more forgiving, it moves well, better masks certain marks, and remains elegant under light.
Travel: the material must be an ally, not a constraint
When traveling, you want to roll a dress in a suitcase, walk, alternate hot/cold, and maintain a neat appearance without ironing every morning. The criteria: wrinkling, odors, versatility.
Smart blends: a predominantly natural fabric with a synthetic part can be ideal: less wrinkling, more stability, faster drying.
Stable knits (interlock, dense jerseys): comfort, ease, few marks if the weight is sufficient. Perfect for tops, simple dresses, coordinated sets.
Merino wool (fine knit): excellent for limiting odors and regulating temperature. A fine sweater or quality merino t-shirt can become a key piece.
9. What quality signals to check in-store or upon receipt
The weight: the silent indicator of the garment's hold
The weight (g/m²) is one of the best indicators of density and hold, but it is rarely communicated. Yet, it helps anticipate: opacity, drape, seasonality, durability.
Here is an indicative grid (variations are normal depending on fiber and structure):
- Shirt: ~90–140 g/m² (closer to 90 = very light/summer, closer to 140 = more opaque and structured)
- Blouse / woven top: ~80–160 g/m² (depending on desired transparency)
- Fluid dress: ~110–200 g/m² (below, watch for opacity and marks)
- Pants: ~180–320 g/m² (depending on season and structure)
- Jacket: ~220–400 g/m² (excluding lining)
- Coat: ~400–800 g/m² (and sometimes more, depending on fabric, double-face, etc.)
These indicative ranges are provided for reference and are based on internal tests as well as international standards, such as ISO 12945 (for pilling) and Martindale (for abrasion). Values may vary depending on structure (woven vs knit) and treatments applied.
Early pilling test: 20 seconds that prevent regrets
Pilling is one of the most common regrets. In-store or upon receipt, perform this simple test:
Palm rubbing 20 seconds on a discreet area (inside, bottom). Then observe:
- Do fibers rise?
- Does the surface become cloudy?
- Do micro-balls already appear?
If yes, the piece will likely be sensitive to daily friction. This may be acceptable for an occasional garment, but risky for a "pillar" piece worn often.
Seams and margins: the material is not enough
A noble material poorly assembled loses all its interest. Look at:
Seam tension: if the fabric puckers along a seam, it is often a sign of tension or poor adjustment. On a fluid material, this breaks the line.
Stitch regularity: stitches too long on a fine material can weaken it. Irregular stitches betray a lack of precision.
Margins and interior finishes: on some pieces, too small a margin can limit alterations and weaken. Clean finishes (neat overlock, French seams, bias) improve durability and comfort.
Quality is often seen on the inside. That's where elegance becomes durable.
10. The most common mistakes that make you regret a purchase
Error #1: buying a percentage instead of a behavior
The most common mistake is choosing a piece because it displays a reassuring fiber: "100% cotton," "wool," "silk." However, as you have seen, the fiber is not enough. The weaving, the knit, the finishes, the lining, the coating transform the wear.
A 100% cotton can be transparent and wrinkle-prone, or dense and structured. Wool can be soft and stable, or rough and fragile. Viscose can be sublime in movement but demanding in washing. To avoid regrets, always ask yourself: how will this material live in my day?
Error #2: underestimating maintenance (and its real cost)
A material can be perfect... if you accept its maintenance. Many regrets come from this: too frequent dry cleaning, too demanding ironing, constraining flat drying, fear of washing.
Before buying, look at:
- Cold wash: is it realistic for you?
- Flat drying: do you have the space and time?
- Dry cleaning: what is the annual budget if you wear the piece often?
A garment worn 30 times a year and regularly dry cleaned has a usage cost. Elegance is also about choosing a material that fits your lifestyle.
Error #3: confusing "premium material" with "suitable material"
A premium material is not always the best for you. A beautiful silk is enchanting in the evening, but it is not ideal for intensive daily use: friction, perspiration, delicate maintenance.
Conversely, a simpler, well-constructed material can be a staple piece: quality twill, stable cool wool, dense well-finished knit. Refinement comes from the balance between style, comfort, maintenance, and durability.
If you should remember only one rule for how to choose a clothing material: choose a material whose qualities match your actual use, and whose demands will not make you give up wearing it. A magnificent garment that stays in the closet has never been a good choice.
Practical conclusion: at your next purchase, do your 5 tests in the fitting room, read the label distinguishing main fabric/lining/coating, look for structural clues (weaving or knit), and project the maintenance. You will buy less "randomly," and much more accurately.

Article by Alberto Alagna
Published on 01/13/2026 at 19:33
About the author
Passionate about textile craftsmanship and sustainable design, Alberto Alagna brings to Misciano a vision where elegance meets ethics. With his experience in high-end ready-to-wear, he shares his style advice and the behind-the-scenes of the Misciano house here.
→ Learn more about Alberto Alagna? Which materials should be favored for an elegant and durable outfit?
For an outfit that is both elegant and durable, opt for materials such as virgin wool, cashmere, or silk. Virgin wool offers excellent thermal insulation while remaining breathable. Cashmere, with its soft and light texture, provides unmatched comfort, while luxurious silk ensures a perfect drape. These natural fibers are also more environmentally friendly, thus enhancing the ethics of your wardrobe.
? How to recognize a quality fabric?
The quality of a fabric is measured by its density, texture, and finish. High-quality fabrics, like silk satin or crepe, have a pleasant feel and a fluid drape. Inspect the finishes: well-made seams and hemmed edges are signs of exceptional craftsmanship. A good fabric should also withstand wear while retaining its luster, which is essential for a timeless piece from the Misciano collection.
? What are the advantages of natural materials compared to synthetic ones?
Natural materials, such as cotton, wool, or silk, offer breathable and thermoregulatory properties, ideal for everyday comfort. Unlike synthetic fabrics, which can sometimes be irritating, natural fibers are gentle on the skin and ensure better moisture wicking. Moreover, these materials are often biodegradable, making them a responsible choice for sustainable and environmentally friendly fashion.
? How to care for my delicate fabric clothes?
To preserve the beauty and longevity of your delicate fabric clothes, opt for hand washing with gentle products. Avoid direct sunlight exposure when drying to prevent discoloration. Low-temperature ironing is recommended on the reverse side of the fabrics to avoid marks. By following these tips, you ensure the durability and shine of your exclusive pieces from Misciano Paris.
? What materials to choose for a spring look?
For a spring look, turn to light and airy fabrics like linen or viscose. Linen, with its slightly textured feel, promotes optimal air circulation, perfect for hot days. Viscose, on the other hand, offers a fluid and elegant drape while being very pleasant to wear. These materials embody refinement and comfort, while allowing great freedom of movement, essential to Misciano's spring collection.
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