World atlas of textile workshops

The differences are driven by wages, regulations and infrastructure. The average hourly wage in textiles is around 0.80 EUR in Bangladesh versus 32 EUR in France, a ratio of 1 to 40. Low-cost countries often have less strict social and environmental standards, reducing compliance expenses significantly. Logistics costs, raw material access and factory productivity (which can vary threefold between an automated Chinese plant and a manual Ethiopian workshop) also influence the final price. According to McKinsey (2024), these differences create a manufacturing price gap that can reach 400% for the same product.

The legal "Made in" label indicates the country of last substantial transformation, which can be misleading: a garment cut in Tunisia and assembled in Portugal will be labelled "Made in Portugal". For thorough verification, cross-reference the RN code on the label, the manufacturer name and customs databases such as Import Genius or Panjiva. Transparent brands publish their certified workshop lists on their websites, and initiatives like the Fashion Transparency Index rank over 250 brands each year. The Open Apparel Registry catalogues more than 70,000 factories worldwide and allows consumers to verify brand claims.

Not necessarily. "Made in Italy" guarantees the last two production steps were completed in Italy, with recognised expertise in districts like Biella (wool), Como (silk) and Prato (fabrics). China produces textiles of all qualities, from low-end to high-end technical: factories in Zhejiang supply silk and cashmere to European luxury houses. Final quality depends on the brand specifications (yarn choice, weave density, finishing), not solely the country of origin. A "Made in Italy" garment at 15 EUR may be of lower quality than a "Made in China" piece ordered by a demanding brand with precise technical requirements.

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) is the leading standard for organic textiles, requiring a minimum of 70% organic fibres and covering environmental and social criteria across the entire chain. Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certifies the absence of over 100 harmful substances in the finished product, from heavy metals to phthalates. Both are independent and verified by annual on-site audits, but each covers a specific domain: GOTS focuses on the production process, Oeko-Tex on the final product. Other complementary certifications include BSCI for social conditions and REACH for European chemical compliance.

The sector employs 4 million people, 60% of whom are women, representing 85% of the country’s exports and 11% of GDP. The legal minimum wage was raised to 12,500 taka per month (about 105 euros) in December 2023, but remains insufficient for a dignified life: the Asia Floor Wage Alliance estimates a living wage at three times this amount. Since the Rana Plaza disaster (2013, 1,134 deaths), the international building safety accord has led to the inspection and renovation of over 1,600 factories. Nevertheless, challenges around unionisation, working conditions and water pollution from industrial dyeing persist in many production zones.

Proximity enables frequent workshop visits, strict quality control at every stage and shorter lead times (4-6 weeks of production vs 12-16 from Asia, not counting 4-6 additional weeks of sea freight). This limits the carbon footprint of transport: intra-European freight emits 10 to 20 times less CO2 than maritime shipping from Asia. European production also ensures compliance with collective agreements, fair wages and REACH environmental standards. This approach further allows better responsiveness for restocking and mid-season collection adjustments.

It is when parts of production are outsourced to undeclared workshops, often cheaper and unaudited. A t-shirt labelled "Portugal" may have been knitted in Turkey, dyed in Tunisia and only assembled in Portugal. According to a University of Sheffield study (2023), up to 40% of fast fashion orders involve at least one undeclared subcontracting step. Only full supply chain traceability (from yarn to finished product), verifiable through tools like traced QR codes or blockchain platforms, can effectively combat this practice.

Read percentages in descending order: the first fibre listed is the dominant one. Identify materials: natural (cotton, wool, linen, silk), artificial (viscose, lyocell, modal, derived from cellulose) or synthetic (polyester, nylon, acrylic, derived from petroleum). Synthetics are less breathable and release microplastics during washing (up to 700,000 fibres per cycle according to the University of Plymouth). A 100% single-fibre composition is often more recyclable than a blend, as current recycling technologies struggle to separate mixed fibres.

Yes, a growing but selective trend. EU textile imports from Asia fell by 8% between 2019 and 2023, while intra-European production (Portugal, Italy, Turkey) grew by 5%. Reshoring mainly concerns high-value collections, small runs and quick restocks where proximity is a decisive advantage. Key drivers include logistics risk reduction (Covid crisis, Suez Canal blockage), growing consumer demand for transparency, automation narrowing the cost gap, and European regulations on circularity and due diligence.

On a t-shirt sold at 29 EUR, manufacturing (cutting, sewing, finishing) may represent only 0.50 to 1.50 EUR, or 2-5% of the retail price. The rest breaks down into raw materials (10-15%), transport and logistics (5-8%), brand margin (20-30%), marketing and communications (10-15%) and distribution/retail (30-40%). For premium and luxury, the manufacturing share reaches 10-15% as skilled labour time is significantly greater. Our cost breakdown details each of these items with concrete examples by garment category.