Collection: Shirts

Poplin (tight weave, 100-140 g/m²): smooth and shiny surface, fine thread, cotton or cotton-polyester. The classic office shirt: formal, not very transparent if of good quality, easy to iron. Loses its luster with repeated washes. Oxford (basket weave, 140-180 g/m²): thicker fabric, visible grain surface, more casual than poplin. More durable and breathable. The "casual smart" shirt type OCBD (Oxford Cloth Button-Down). Chambray (colored weave, white weft/colored warp): looks like denim but lighter: the most casual version. Cotton satin: smooth and shiny surface like poplin but with a more pronounced sheen: more "dressy," often used for evening shirts. Cotton voile (very light, 70-90 g/m²): transparent, requires a camisole underneath: summery.

Gaping occurs when the bust circumference requires more fabric than the shirt has between two buttons. It's not a matter of size (taking a size up results in a shirt too wide at the shoulders and too short): it's a matter of button spacing and bust area placement. Solutions: look for shirts with additional buttons between standard buttons (some brands sew an extra half-button at chest height), shirts with elastic fabric (polyamide or elastane in the composition), shirts specifically cut for generous busts (called "fitted for curves" with more room in the bust area). Stitching technique: an invisible stitch between two gaping buttons: a tailor can do this in 5 minutes.

Classic collar (short points): universal, office and everyday. Works with or without a tie. Long point collar (cutaway or spread collar): the points spread widely: open on the bust, modern, works better without a tie. Effect: elongates the neck and opens the neckline. Mandarin collar (band collar, no points): minimalist, contemporary, worn open-neck. Trendy but less versatile. Officer collar: closed with a button at the top: neutral, structured. Shirt collar (buttoned all the way down, like a dress collar): opens in a progressive V depending on the number of buttons closed: the most adjustable. Peter Pan collar (round): falls flat on the shoulders: more feminine, less formal.

The transparency of a shirt depends on the fabric density (number of threads per cm²) and its weight. Quick test: hold the shirt folded in two against the light: if you can see your hand behind it, the fabric is transparent and requires a camisole or suitable undergarment. White shirts in fine poplin (100-120 g/m²) are often partially transparent. Shirts in oxford or chambray are generally opaque. Most transparent colors: white, light pastel, pale pink. Most opaque colors: navy blue, black, stripes on a dark background. A transparent shirt worn without an underlayer is not a style issue if intentional: but it must be anticipated.

Cotton poplin: machine wash 40°C, ironing required (creases a lot). Cotton-polyester poplin "easy-iron": machine wash 40°C, little ironing (polyester limits creasing). Oxford: machine wash 40°C, moderately creases, can be worn slightly creased for a "carefully casual" look. Chambray: machine wash 40°C, worn creased (it's the chambray aesthetic). Cotton satin: hand wash or delicate machine wash 30°C, iron on the reverse at moderate temperature (satin shines, marks if the iron is too hot). Silk: hand wash only or dry cleaning.

For a specifically white shirt: white shirts. To pair with office pants: black pants or beige pants. To pair with a skirt: midi skirts or long skirts. For a blazer over a shirt: black jackets. To create a complete summer outfit around the shirt: women's summer outfit. For a silk scarf worn in the collar: silk scarves.